Let’s Talk Acids: A Beginner’s Guide to Skincare Acids 🧪
If the word acid scares you, take a deep breath & don’t freak out!
We’re not talking about something that burns your entire face off. In skincare, acids are some of the most powerful (and transformative) ingredients when used correctly. They exfoliate, brighten, smooth, clear pores, and help you achieve that glassy, refined glow.
Let’s break down what they are, what they do, and which one might be right for your skin.
What Do Acids Actually Do?
Most skincare acids are chemical exfoliants - meaning they dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells so they can shed properly.
Instead of physically scrubbing your face (which can cause micro-tears), acids work on a cellular level to:
Smooth texture
Unclog pores
Brighten dull skin
Fade hyperpigmentation
Reduce fine lines
Help acne heal faster
Let’s get into the different types!
AHAs (Alpha-Hydroxy Acids)
This type of acid is water-soluble (dissolves in water) which is ideal for treating surface-level concerns. They work by loosening the "glue" between dead skin cells on the surface, promoting cell turnover to improve skin texture, reduce fine lines, and enhance radiance.
Ideal for: Dry, dull, aging, or sun-damaged skin
Common AHAs:
Glycolic Acid — The strongest and smallest molecule. Great for brightening and anti-aging.
Lactic Acid — More gentle and hydrating. Ideal for sensitive or dry skin.
Mandelic Acid — Larger molecule, penetrates slower. Amazing for acne-prone or sensitive skin.
What they help with:
Fine lines
Uneven tone
Hyperpigmentation/dark spots
Rough texture
BHAs (Beta-Hydroxy Acids)
BHAs are oil-soluble acids that penetrate deep into pores to dissolve excess oil, dirt, and dead skin cells. They help reduce blackheads, whiteheads, and inflamed acne while calming inflammation and improving texture. Because they break down keratin buildup that can clog pores, they’re especially effective for oily, acne-prone, and congested skin.
Ideal for: Oily, acne-prone, congested skin
The Most Common BHA:
Salicylic Acid — the gold standard for acne. It penetrates pores to dissolve oil + debris, is anti-inflammatory and antibacterial. Derived from willow bark.
While Salicylic Acid is the most well-known BHA, there are gentler derivatives that offer similar pore-clearing benefits with less irritation.
Other BHAs:
Betaine Salicylate — gentler derivative of salicylic acid that is often used in Korean skincare. Gives a slower, milder exfoliation that is great for sensitive but acne-prone skin.
Willow Bark Extract — natural source of salicin (precursor to salicylic acid). Has mild exfoliating + anti-inflammatory properties. More subtle, but good for calming congested skin.
What they help with:
Clogged pores
Blackheads
Excess oil
Breakouts
Inflammation
PHAs (Polyhydroxy Acids)
PHAs work similarly to AHAs, but with a much gentler approach.
The key difference? They have larger molecular structures.
Because of their larger size, PHAs penetrate the skin more slowly and stay closer to the surface.
That means:
Less irritation
Less stinging
Less redness
More barrier-friendly exfoliation
They’re ideal for clients who say:
“My skin is sensitive.”
“I can’t tolerate glycolic.”
“AHAs made me red.”
“I have rosacea.”
“My barrier is compromised.”
What PHAs Actually Do
Even though they’re gentle, they still:
Exfoliate dead skin cells
Improve texture
Brighten dull skin
Support hydration
Strengthen the skin barrier
Unlike stronger acids that can sometimes strip the skin, PHAs are also humectants, meaning they attract water to the skin.
So while they exfoliate, they hydrate at the same time 💦
This makes them amazing for:
Dehydrated skin
Mature skin
Post-treatment skin
Clients new to chemical exfoliation
What they help with:
Mild texture
Sensitive skin
Dehydration
Barrier support
If you’ve tried acids before and felt irritated, PHAs may be the better fit.
Other Acids You Should Know:
Azelaic Acid
Great for acne, redness, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation.
It’s antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and brightening.
Hyaluronic Acid
Not an exfoliating acid - it’s a hydrator that pulls water into the skin.
Tranexamic Acid
Targets stubborn pigmentation and melasma.
Kojic Acid
Helps brighten and reduce dark spots.
How to Use Acids Safely
Start 1–3 times per week.
Always wear SPF (acids increase sun sensitivity).
Don’t mix too many actives at once.
Hydrate and support your barrier.
If you’re pregnant or using prescription retinoids, please consult your doctor first.
Over-exfoliation can cause:
Sensitivity
Breakouts
Barrier damage
Redness
Tight, shiny skin
More is not better.
In A Nutshell:
AHAs = stronger surface exfoliation
BHAs = pore-deep oil dissolving
PHAs = gentle resurfacing + hydration
Acids are not scary. They’re powerful tools.
But the right acid depends on:
Your skin type
Your concerns
Your barrier health
Your current routine
When chosen correctly, they can completely transform your skin.
If you’re unsure which acid your skin actually needs, we’re here to help guide you. That’s why we created our facials to be fully customizable to fit your specific skin concern! So go ahead and click that button to begin your glowing skin journey 🍓
Hey Bestie! Interested in learning more about other treatments?
Learn more:
Our Dew + Renew Facial: The Ultimate Microdermabrasion + Hydrofacial Glow-Up
The Hydro Glow Facial: The Ultimate Deep Cleanse + Hydration Boost for Radiant Skin
Book with your new favorite esthetician! 🖤 Serving the Dallas-Fort Worth (DFW), Richardson, Plano, Garland, Frisco, Allen, McKinney, Addison, Carrollton, and surrounding areas.